The January cold snap that took out 70 percent of Florida's tomato crop is putting the squeeze on local wholesalers and restaurants.
Florida produces most of the nation's tomatoes at this time of year. A normal crop is valued at more than $600 million.
The shortage that resulted from a January freeze has reduced the supply of Florida tomatoes in this area to "the same as none," said Pete Vernon of Vernon Produce, a local wholesaler.
At the same time, prices have almost tripled -- even for the tomatoes that Vernon and other suppliers are buying from Mexico. His company normally pays $12 to $15 for a 25-pound case of tomatoes. Now they are paying $35 for Mexican tomatoes -- and even more for the few Florida tomatoes still available.
"It's all about supply and demand," Vernon said. "Mexico is having to supply everything that would come from Florida."
Vernon said that the problem is hurting his business, but that it's probably hurting small restaurants more. He is forced to pass on some of the price increases.
Susan Smith, a co-owner of Triad Produce Inc., said she has seen estimates of cases costing $60. Some restaurants have stopped buying tomatoes, she said, and she and her husband, B.J. Smith, have laid off one employee because of lagging sales.
Smith said that some restaurants, particularly Mexican restaurants, are still buying tomatoes. Because of their menus, they have no choice. But they aren't happy about it.
"It's a nightmare," she said. "This is probably the worst I've seen tomato prices."
Some restaurants have switched from beefsteak tomatoes to Romas. Romas tend to be a little cheaper, Smith said. "But if people keep buying them, they will go up."
Ameen "Mooney" David, the owner of Mooney's Mediterranean Cafe on Fourth Street in downtown Winston-Salem, can't do without tomatoes. Like many restaurants, Mooney's is absorbing the extra cost. The restaurants use them in such menu items as tabbouleh (a salad of bulgur wheat with tomatoes and herbs) and fettoosh (a chopped salad with tomatoes and cucumbers).
"We're just trying to ride it out," he said.
David said he uses two or three cases of tomatoes a week. The worst part, he said, is not the high prices he has to pay, but the poor quality. He said that some of the tomatoes are soft and mushy and with little flavor. "Sometimes you can hide the flavor when it's with meat or something, but you can't hide the texture."
Kristi Harkrader, a co-owner of the Subway franchise on Fourth Street, said she has to throw away half of her tomatoes because of poor quality. "When you cut them, they are just like goo inside," she said.
Kevin Hoeing, a co-owner of the Jimmy John's sandwich shop downtown, said that his tomatoes tend to come in a little green. "We're either sending them back or letting them sit out to ripen," he said.
Sal Bravo, the owner of Senor Bravo and Las Estrellas Mexican restaurants, said he goes through about 14 cases of tomatoes a week at Senor Bravo alone.
Because he uses so many, he started charging customers 50 cents a bowl for salsa after the first bowl, instead of just giving unlimited salsa with meals. He posted a sign explaining the charge to customers.
James Hanks, the owner of the Jersey's Mike sub franchise on Jonestown Road, hasn't cut back yet. "When people come in and order a turkey sandwich, they want it to be the same turkey sandwich they know," he said.
Still, he might have to do something soon. He is paying $45 a case, up from $16 to $22.
Vernon said that the price may not come down soon. The supply from Mexico may dwindle before Florida has recovered enough to ship more tomatoes, which will probably be mid-April.
"Mexico has peaked, and Florida isn't ready. It's going to get worse before it gets better."
mhastings@wsjournal.com
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