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Wine of the Week: 2007 Chalone Chardonnay

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Chalone, set out in the middle of nowhere near the Pinnacles National Monument, at one time was the Holy Grail of California chardonnays and pinot noirs, and it can still make the occasional lovely wine. This estate-grown 2007 Chalone Chardonnay (Chalone, Calif., $24) shows all the breeding of a great vineyard, with intense and well-balanced flavors of baked apple, lemon, white pepper and minerals. The finish is long, with more acidity than you would expect from such a ripe wine. Serve with salmon, fish stew or ham.

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