The Ballatore Gran Spumante (California, $8) is a sweet, bubbly wine from Gallo. Any wine snob should hate it on sight. But guess what? It's very well-made and supremely affordable. It's fun, fruity and not overly sweet. The flavors of peach, apricot, orange and lime recall a well-made Asti Spumante, though Ballatore is more sophisticated than most Astis. And plenty of lively acidity keeps it from being cloying. This would be a good choice for wedding receptions, where a dry sparkling wine would likely cost much more and not be enjoyed by as many of the guests. Serve with fresh fruit or lightly sweet desserts. Available at many supermarkets.
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