Mighty miso

Many people have started off a meal in a Japanese restaurant with a bowl of miso soup.

Light yet deeply flavored, satisfying but not filling, miso soup is perhaps the most-ordered item on any Japanese menu.

But not many people know what miso is. Yes, it's a soup, but it is much, much more.

What is it?

Miso is a salty, fermented soybean paste. It also might contain rice, barley or another grain in combination with soybeans.

Miso is not eaten by itself, but used as an ingredient. Miso is used in many ways, and it is best to think of it as a seasoning or condiment, not unlike soy sauce. Miso packs a lot of flavor, and just a spoonful or two can add depth to soups and a whole range of dishes.

Where does it come from?

Miso originated in China and was brought to Japan in the sixth century and then refined throughout the centuries. Now, it is considered an essential Japanese ingredient, in traditional and contemporary cooking.

Miso is made by inoculating cooked soybeans with a starter culture called koji. The koji culture has a mold in a base of rice, soybean or barley. The inoculated soybeans and any added grains are mashed with salt and water, then left to ferment. Fermentation, which often takes 12 months, produces a wealth of nutrients as well as a rich, intense flavor.

Health benefits

Miso is prized for its umami (savory) flavor and its health benefits.

Miso contains protein, fiber and nutrients such as magnesium and potassium. Studies have associated miso consumption with a reduced risk of gastric, breast, colon and liver cancers. It is also said to help prevent strokes and high blood pressure and to reduce body toxins. Its antioxidants are thought to help slow the aging process. On the down side, miso is fairly high in sodium.

Different types

Miso comes in many types, sometimes described by color and sometimes by ingredients.

Some of the most common types are:

• Mame miso, made with soybeans, malted soybeans and salt.

• Kome miso, made from malted rice, soybeans and salt.

• Mugi miso, made with malted barley, soybeans and salt.

Other grains are sometimes used, too, but those three are most common. About 80 percent of the miso made in Japan is rice miso, according to Hiroko Shimbo in "The Japanese Kitchen" (Harvard Common Press, 2000).

Those three types can vary quite a lot in style and taste. So misos also are classified by color, which typically corresponds to saltiness and strength of flavor. In terms of color, people mainly need to consider three types: white, red and brown. So a kome miso, for example, may be made into a white or red miso.

Shiro miso, or white miso – which tends to be yellowish in color — is made with a high proportion of rice to soybeans, is less salty and sweeter and might ferment only a week or so. White miso is lightest in flavor. Next comes red miso (sendai or aka miso), which is saltier, stronger and fermented for a longer period than white miso. The third is brown miso. Brown miso is especially salty, has a long fermentation of a year or more, and a strong umami flavor. Brown miso includes genmai, made from brown rice; and hatcho, made from only soybeans.

Shiro miso is chosen for fish or other light dishes. Brown miso is more likely to be used with red meat or heavier dishes. Red miso is versatile; try it in a tomato or meat sauce for pasta.

When shopping for miso, it's simplest to choose a miso by color, because that will dictate the strength of flavor and how it will be used.

It's been said that more than a hundred types of miso exist. They are based on the particular koji mold, combinations and proportions of soybeans and grains, and the fermentation time. Often two or more types of miso are combined to create a Chougoumiso, or mixed miso. So it's not unusual for a home cook to keep two or three types, often using them together in the same dish.

In shopping for miso, look for brands that are just soybeans, salt, water and perhaps another grain, but no other additives, especially MSG (monosodium glutamate).

Storage

Miso is considered a living food with active microorganisms and must be kept refrigerated. But because it is fermented, it lasts a long time in the fridge, typically a year. Sometimes a white mold will form on miso, but this is harmless and can be scraped off.

Uses

Miso is first and foremost a flavor additive to soup, particularly the eponymous miso soup. This soup has two main ingredients, miso and dashi, a simple stock made of dried kelp and dried bonito fish flakes simmered in water. Making the stock takes only about 15 minutes; nevertheless, instant dashi, sold as dried granules to be mixed with water, has become popular in Japan and the rest of the world.

Classic miso soup typically is nothing more than miso stirred into dashi with a garnish of tofu cubes and pieces of green onion. The Japanese use miso in many other types of soup, too, with chicken, seafood, mushrooms, spinach and other vegetables.

Miso can be a secret ingredient in Western soups. It depends on the type of soup. But chicken and seafood soups seem to benefit from a little miso. Try adding some to a favorite recipe for clam chowder. Just watch the sodium. Miso is going to make anything taste a little saltier, and just about any dish made with miso will not need any added salt.

About a tablespoon of miso will provide plenty of flavor and sodium to a cup of water. If adding to an already flavored liquid like a salt-free or low-sodium broth, 1 to 2 teaspoons of miso is usually enough for each cup of liquid.

Though many recipes call for cooking miso, it often is added at the last minute so that its many beneficial microorganisms are not destroyed by overcooking. Most recipes will say not to boil miso and to gently heat any liquid with miso no more than three or four minutes.

More about miso

Uses for miso

Here are some of the many foods that can be flavored with miso:

• Honey or butter spread on toast

• Vinaigrette or creamy salad dressing

• Hummus or creamy dips for vegetables

• Soups or stews

• Pasta, mixed with ingredients such as lemon juice, garlic, ginger and tahini, as well as a choice of vegetables

• Marinade and glazes for grilled or broiled fish, chicken, tofu or meats

• Mayonnaise, as a topping for baked or boiled potatoes

• Eggs cooked into an omelet

• Simmered or stir-fried kale or other greens

• Sauteed mushrooms with or without garlic

Note that miso is very salty. For best results, add miso only to low-salt or salt-free foods. Add the miso gradually, tasting after each addition, and do not add any additional salt.

Where to buy

Asian stores sell authentic misos imported from Japan. In Winston-Salem, Asia Grocery on Peters Creek Parkway and Oriental Oasis on Lockland Avenue sell miso. Also, Whole Foods Market on Miller Street and Fresh Market on Robinhood Road sell several types of Miso Master miso made by the American Miso Co., based in Asheville.

More recipes

South River Miso, an American company that makes miso, has many recipes on its website, www.southrivermiso.com. Great Eastern Sun, the marketer for the American Miso Co., also has a lot of recipes atwww.great-eastern-sun.com.

Miso Soup

Makes 4 servings

1 quart water

1½ teaspoons instant dashi or to taste (See Note)

¼ cup white, red or brown miso

½ cup cubed firm tofu

2 scallions, thinly sliced

1. Bring the water to a simmer and stir in the dashi until dissolved.

2. Reduce heat and stir in the miso until dissolved. Stir in the tofu and cook 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in the scallions. (See Note.) Serve immediately.

Note: To make dashi from scratch, omit the instant dashi and heat the quart of water with 2 teaspoons bonito flakes and 1 4-inch piece (or 4 teaspoons chopped) kombu, or dried seaweed. Simmer 5 to 10 minutes, then strain.This soup can be varied by the addition of ½ cup sliced fresh mushrooms, 2 teaspoons sesame oil, 1 tablespoon thinly sliced nori (seaweed) or ½ cup soybean or mung-bean sprouts, or 1 finely diced carrot.

Chicken and Vegetable Miso Soup

Makes 4 servings

2 large boneless, skinless chicken thighs

2 small potatoes, peeled and diced

1 ½-inch piece fresh ginger plus 1 tablespoon grated or minced fresh gingerroot for garnish

1 carrot, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice

½ daikon radish or cabbage, cut into ¼-inch dice, optional

3 scallions, cut into 1-inch lengths

3 tablespoons miso, preferably brown, divided use

1. Heat 1 quart water to a simmer. Add chicken thighs and simmer about 10 minutes, just until cooked through. Remove chicken.

2. Add the potatoes, ½-inch piece ginger, carrot and daikon, if using. Simmer 10 minutes until potatoes are just tender.

3. Dice the chicken and return to the pot. Add the scallions and half the miso and cook 4 minutes.

4. Stir in remaining miso until dissolved. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish each with a little of the grated ginger.

Note: To make a seafood soup, substitute 1 quart dashi (or 1 quart water plus 2 teaspoons instant dashi) for the water. Omit the chicken and substitute 10 to 12 ounces seafood, such as a combination of chopped shrimp and cubed white fish. Add the seafood around the time of the scallions and miso, so that the seafood is just barely cooked through before the soup is served.

Recipe adapted from “The Japanese Kitchen” (Harvard Common Press, 2000) by Hiroko Shimbo

Creamy Tofu Dip

8 ounces soft or silken tofu

2 tablespoons olive oil (or other light oil)

2 tablespoons white miso

2 cloves garlic, minced

Juice from ½ lemon

Pinch salt

2 tablespoons chives finely chopped (parsley or scallions may be used)

In a blender or food processor, mix all ingredients, except chives, until smooth. Blend in chives by hand. Refrigerate 2 to 3 hours before serving to allow flavors to blend.

For variations, try adding:

1 well-ripened avocado, peeled, seeded and mashed plus additional juice of ½ lemon

½ to 1 teaspoon fresh or dried herbs

½ teaspoon curry powder or to taste

A few drops of hot sauce

Recipe adapted from www.southrivermiso.com

Easy Miso Marinade

¼ cup miso (See Note)

2 to 4 tablespoons mirin, lemon juice or cider vinegar

1 to 2 teaspoons soy sauce or tamari

2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced

1 to 2 teaspoons fresh grated ginger, optional

Mix all ingredients together well. Pour over 1 to 1½ pounds tofu, fish or chicken and let marinate in refrigerator for at least 2 hours.

Then bake, broil or sauté.

Note: For fish, choose a white or other lightly flavored miso. For beef, choose a brown or red miso.

Recipe from www.southrivermiso.com

Creamy Herb Miso Dressing

Makes 10 servings of 2 tablespoons each

½ cup milk, buttermilk or soymilk

¼ cup white miso

¼ cup cider or rice vinegar

¼ cup chopped onions

1 teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon ground ginger or 1 tablespoon fresh grated gingerroot

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or cilantro, optional

In a blender or food processor, combine all the ingredients until smooth. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours to allow flavors to develop. Serve with a favorite tossed salad.

Recipe based on one posted at www.soyfoods.com

Salmon with Red Pepper Miso Sauce

Makes 4 servings

3 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted

¼ cup white miso

2 tablespoons mirin (sweet cooking wine)

2 tablespoons sake, dry white wine or dry vermouth

1 1½-pound salmon fillet, or 4 fillets about 6 ounces each

Oil for broiling

Lemon slices for garnish

Red pepper miso sauce:

¼ cup white miso

1 tablespoon sugar

Juice of ½ lemon

2 tablespoons sake, dry vermouth, or dry white wine

1 12-ounce jar roasted red peppers, drained (See Note)

2 egg yolks

1. Crush the sesame seeds with a mortar and pestle, or in a spice grinder. Place in a bowl with miso, mirin and sake. Stir until well combined. Place salmon so that it lays flat in a single layer in a pan or deep plate. Rub on all sides with miso mixture and let marinate for 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, for the sauce, heat the sugar, lemon juice, sake and red peppers in a saucepan until hot. Do not boil. Stir in miso and remove from heat. While still hot, transfer to a food processor and process a few seconds to chop the peppers. Then with the machine running, drop the yolks through the feed tube and process until peppers are pureed.

3. Heat oven broiler. Lightly grease a broiler pan. Remove fish from marinade and gently wipe off excess. Place fish in broiler pan and broil until the fish is almost done, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from oven and brush tops with sauce. Return to oven for 1 to 2 minutes until fish is cooked and sauce is lightly browned or charred. Serve immediately.

Note: The Japanese also make a similar sauce with spinach. If desired, substitute 10 ounces spinach for the roasted red peppers. Steam or wilt the spinach, mix with other ingredients until hot, then puree.