David and Laura Roselli divide time between Winston-Salem and Yadkin County residences. They moved from Durham, hoping to find a property that would allow them to open a restaurant. The building they selected, now on the National Register of Historic Properties, originated as the Davis Brothers’ store almost 100 years ago.
Kitchen Roselli opened four years ago. Much of the original interior has been left intact, although painted and spruced up. Old photographs of the store as well as family photos and china decorate walls and the store’s original shelves.
The Rosellis term their cuisine “Mom and Pop” Italian, a function of family recipes. When feasible, they focus on local ingredients. If you park out back, you walk by a small herb-and-vegetable garden.
My first experience here came in the context of the Best Dish North Carolina competition (www.bestdishnc.com). When I judged their entry (one of 10 finalists from a field of about 30), I knew I would be returning.
That meal began with Laura’s Foccacia ($5 on regular menu), augmented with a medallion of herbed goat cheese (add $2) from Daddy’s Girl Dairy. The hot, crisp crust, sprinkled with fresh herbs, produces wonderful flavor.
A salad (included with entrée price) of mixed lettuces, Sleepy Goat Farm blue cheese, toasted pecans, slices of Brushy Mountain apples, is dressed with an herbed balsamic vinaigrette reduced with Cheerwine.
Gilda’s Farm to Table Agnolotti ($18) uses beef from Apple Brandy Farm, stuffed with spinach, garlic, and Parmegiano-Reggiano cheeses, ladled with tomato sauce. Sorbet ($6) of Shelton Vineyards Riesling wine garnished with fresh blueberries and raspberries plus mint from the restaurant garden completed that meal. These items will be featured as specials this weekend.
From the regular menu, David’s Award Winning Meatballs ($5) blend ground beef, veal, and pork, producing rich flavor, well-served by the family recipe tomato sauce. (The award came from Maggiano’s restaurant in Durham. Laura’s entry came in second!) An off-menu special one evening added pine nuts and currants, an enjoyable variation.
Entrée prices include a choice of My Granny’s Salad (chopped iceberg lettuce, red and yellow cherry tomatoes, onion, and celery with sweet, creamy Italian dressing) or a Garden Market salad (mixed lettuces, carrots, red onions and cucumber, with red wine or balsamic basil vinaigrette). Either costs $4.75/small, $8/large, if ordered separately. These are distinguished by the freshness of the ingredients, and the family-recipe dressings are especially tasty.
Mamma’s Lasagna ($13) comes with a choice of meat or tomato sauce. We chose meat. The hearty portion exudes a rich ricotta-cheese flavor, undergirded by mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses. Aglio Olio ($14) turned out to be a favorite. Black olives, pine nuts, thinly sliced garlic, red pepper flakes, parsley, basil, and Pecorino Romano cheese are tossed in al dente spaghetti with extra virgin olive oil.
A large, thick, deboned breast forms the basis for Neapolitan Chicken ($15), covered with soft, braised onions blended with oregano, plus melted mozzarella cheese, all ladled with tomato sauce.
Pa’s Veal Cutlets ($15) are coated with a little egg batter, then dusted with bread crumbs and sautéed. The veal itself produces quality flavor from lean texture. Mozzarella cheese, tomato sauce, and fresh parsley complete the conception.
Shrimp Milan ($17) uses large, deveined shrimp, lightly battered and pan-fried, enhanced with chopped parsley, fresh lemon juice and garlic butter. Penne pasta with basil marinara sauce is the host.
Plates are heated — very hot — when appropriate.
All seating is situated within one large room, so when full, the dining room becomes a bit noisy. My wife and I were still able to carry on conversations in normal tones, however. We loved this place and expect to return whenever we can.
Email
Facebook
Google
Twitter
Favorites
More
Advertisement