If you're craving kimchi, that funky, spicy Korean fermented cabbage, but don't want to make your own, here are some prepared varieties in order of appreciation:
• Tobagi (fresh). Our top pick. Bright red in color, fiery and pungent with garlic, it has a heavy hit of fishiness on the finish. Scallions add contrast. 16 ounces, $4.49; available at the Korean-American Asian supermarket chain H Mart (sometimes branded as Han Ah Reum and Super H).
• Tobagi (jarred). A respectable store-bought variety. Large pieces of cabbage and radish are complemented with a little apple and pear. An attractive red color. The heat is evenly dispersed. Note: The ingredients include MSG. 16 ounces, $3.49; available at H Mart stores and online at www.hmart.com.
• Sunja's. A watered-down version for kimchi novices. The vegetables have an appealing crunch. Both the mild white and medium spicy cabbage we tried are vegetarian friendly, but without any salted fish, they lacked that addictive oomph. 16 ounces, $3.50; available at Whole Foods Markets.
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