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Old Salem Tavern

Address: 736 S. Main St.

Phone: 748-8585.

Website: www.oldsalemtavern.com.

Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday through Friday; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday; Dinner: Monday through Saturday 5-9 p.m.

Reservations: Accepted.

Type of cuisine: A mix of heavy European-inflected sausages, short ribs and the like, such Moravian favorites as chicken pot pie, with lighter, often Asian-tinged modern dishes. I stuck to dinner for my review, but a lunch menu -- soups, salads and a few hearty entrees -- is available, too.

Alcohol: Full bar.

Smoking: Allowed outside under veranda -- covered in lavender wisteria blooms in the spring -- and on back porch.

Health-department rating: 97 percent.

Price range: Lunch: Salads and soups: $3.95-$4.75. Entrees: $6.95-$8.75. Dinner: Appetizers, salads and soups: $3.95-$8.95. Entrees: $12.75-$23.75. Desserts: $4.25-$5.95.

Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa, American Express.

Atmosphere: Ye Olde Tavern, replete with fireplaces, creaky floors, pewter chargers and sputtering candles. The menu's more modern than the Colonial quaintness lets on.

The wait: None.

Service: Uneven. Can be a little lackadaisical, can be downright rude, can be kind, graceful and competent. And no matter what kind of service you get, a 15 percent gratuity is included in every bill.

Be sure to try: Red cabbage, red onion and apple salad with blue cheese and walnuts; fried green tomatoes with country ham, and red pepper and white cheddar cheese sauces; pumpkin and sunflower-seed crusted salmon with blood orange vinaigrette; chocolate-pecan pie, and take a chance on the lemon ice cream.

Stay away from: Choucroute.

Vegetarian-friendly? There are a few things to choose from, including a green curry with vegetables over basmati rice.

Will I go back? Sure. For out-of-town guests and a nice summer evening outside, it's a good option.

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