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Eggplant Parmesan at home is better, lighter
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Published: August 26, 2009
I grew three eggplant plants in my garden last year. I planted six this year.
Though I'm the only one in my house who likes eggplant, three plants weren't enough.
I've become a big fan of grilled eggplant. The smokiness of the grill wonderfully complements the exotic, earthy flavor.
But the real reason I planted more eggplants is eggplant Parmesan, or melanzane alla Parmigiana, as the Italians call it. The dish is a layering of eggplants, tomatoes and cheese. But it is a divine combination.
Unfortunately, this dish rarely tastes divine in restaurants. There, it is usually made with fried eggplant and a long-cooked sauce and topped with gobs of tasteless, aged mozzarella.
The frying is traditional, but I have found that I prefer eggplant Parmesan that is much lighter.
In short, I want something that tastes of summer.
Fresh and light, quick and easy
My eggplant Parmesan is fresher and lighter than most versions. It's also quicker and easier.
I save time by using small eggplants. They aren't as bitter as large ones, so it allows me to skip the step of salting them for an hour to remove bitterness. Salting in traditional recipes also helps to prevent eggplant from absorbing a lot of oil. But I take care of that problem by not frying the eggplant. Broiling them with just a little oil makes for a dish that tastes lighter, fresher and has fewer calories.
I won't claim that my method has the rich unctuousness of traditional recipes that fry the eggplant, but it also doesn't have as much fat.
Instead of canned tomatoes, I use fresh Romas. I quickly broil them to loosen the skins. Then I turn them into a fresh-tasting sauce with about 15 minutes on the stove. Fresh, instead of aged, mozzarella also adds to the fresh taste. I also use much less mozzarella and more Parmesan than many recipes so my eggplant Parmesan is less gooey and tastes more like, well, Parmesan.
Stay out of the fridge
This recipe can be done in about an hour, depending on how many eggplant slices fit under the broiler at one time. Be sure to season the eggplant and tomatoes well with salt and pepper. You won't be able to properly season them once the casserole is assembled.
I prefer cooking this in a large, shallow dish, such as a 9-by13-inch pan. The recipe below makes two layers in the latter pan. Using a shallow pan helps ensure that any excess liquid can evaporate.
One last tip: Refrigeration makes fresh eggplant go bad faster. They are best stored for a few days at room temperature.
Eggplant Parmesan
Extra-virgin olive oil
3 pounds fresh (preferably Roma) tomatoes (15 to 20 Romas)
3 pounds small eggplants
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ small onion, minced (optional)
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves, or more to taste
Pinch of crushed red-pepper flakes
1½ cups freshly grated Parmigiano cheese
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, cubed
1. Heat broiler. Grease a large broiler or sheet pan with olive oil. Core tomatoes and cut in half lengthwise. Place on pan, toss a bit to coat with oil, and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Broil until tomatoes slightly soften and skins begin to loosen, 10 to 12 minutes.
2. Peel tomatoes; if large, coarsely chop them. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a pan over medium heat. Add onion, if using, and cook 1 minute. Add garlic and cook 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and red-pepper flakes; cook, mashing tomatoes with a spoon, until sauce is thick, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in basil. Add salt to taste.
3. Meanwhile, peel eggplant if desired and slice into ½-inch slices. Arrange as many as will fit in a single layer on the same pan that was used for tomatoes. Toss, brush or spray with just enough oil to lightly coat. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Broil until browned and soft, about12 minutes. Repeat with any remaining eggplant.
4. Turn oven to the bake setting and set at 375 degrees. Spread a thin film of tomato sauce into a 9-by-13-inch or other large, shallow baking dish. Arrange a layer of eggplant slices over sauce. Sprinkle with some of both cheeses. Repeat layers until all ingredients are used. Finish with remaining sauce and, if desired, a sprinkle of more chopped basil.
5. Bake about 20 minutes, until eggplant heats through, cheese melts, and excess liquid evaporates. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Makes 4 servings.
■ Michael Hastings, the Journal's Food editor, can be contacted by phone at 727-7394, e-mail at mhastings@wsjournal.com, or mail at c/o Winston-Salem Journal, P.O. 3159, Winston-Salem, NC 27102. His most recent columns can be read on our Web site at www.journalnow.com.
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