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The Root of the Matter: Time to celebrate the celery root
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Published: April 1, 2009
What it is: Celeriac (pronounced sell-air-e-ak) is a form of celery cultivated for its root. It's also known as celery root, celery knob or knob celery. It's a gnarly, knobby root that has an earthy aroma and taste reminiscent of celery and parsley. It's brownish on the outside and mottled white and off-white inside. It can range in size from an apple to bigger than a softball. Celeriac usually weighs a pound and costs about $3.50.
Origins: The Mediterranean. It is said that wild celeriac was considered a delicacy in the Arab world as long as 500 years ago. It eventually spread through Europe and now is particularly popular in France.
Selecting and Storage: Celeriac is available year-round, but it's best in the winter through early spring. Though gnarled, look for roots that are smoother for ease in preparation. Buy medium-sized roots that are heavy for their size. They should not be spongy or dry. Press the stalk end to make sure it is not spongy. Avoid any with soft spots. Trim and discard the stalk, and wrap the root in plastic. Keep refrigerated for up to one week.
Preparation: Thoroughly scrub celeriac with a brush. Trim and discard stalk and root bottom. Quarter the vegetable to remove any spongy pith. Then peel thoroughly. If not using peeled celeriac immediately, cover large pieces in cold water with a little lemon juice; this prevents the flesh from turning brown. Avoid soaking for long periods, as celeriac will absorb water.
Uses and cooking methods: Celeriac can be enjoyed raw in salads, usually grated, shredded or cut into matchsticks. It is great after a few hours' marinating in vinaigrette. To tame the strong flavor of raw celeriac, toss each shredded celeriac in 1 teaspoon of salt and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice. Let stand one hour, then rinse, drain and pat dry. To make milder still, blanch in boiling, salted water for one minute, then drain, rinse in cold water and thoroughly pat dry.
In salads, pair it with other strong flavors, such as those in a tangy vinaigrette. It goes well with smoked meats and sausage, mustard, capers, onions, anchovies, beets, carrots, apples and walnuts.
Cooked celeriac is good simmered in soup or stew with other vegetables and meat. It often is simmered in salted water by itself or with potatoes then pureed for a side dish. It also is a good addition to many casseroles, pairing well with dried beans, sweet potatoes, carrots, leeks, onions and winter squash. Try adding some cubed celeriac to beef or lamb stew, or to braised lamb shanks. Try substituting half the potatoes in a favorite recipe for mashed potatoes with celeriac for a great side dish.
Recipes:
Cranberry, Celery Root and Carrot Salad with Vinaigrette
Here is a simple way to enjoy the crisp, refreshing texture of raw celery root, adapted from Frieda's Specialty Produce Co.
¼ cup raspberry vinegar
¼ cup olive oil
½ tablespoon salt
½ tablespoon pepper
2 cups shredded carrots, chilled (about 4 medium)
1½ to 2 cups celeriac, shredded and chilled (1 large or 2 small)
1 cup dried cranberries
3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon, chopped (about ½ bunch)
½ cup red onion, finely chopped
Whisk together raspberry vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. Combine carrots, celery root, dried cranberries, tarragon, and onion. Toss with dressing. Makes 4 servings.
Warm Celery Root with Mustard Sauce
This easy recipe brings out the sweeter, starchier side of cooked celeriac. Recipe adapted from Frieda's Specialty Produce Co.
1 large celery root (or 2 to 3 small)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons plain yogurt
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1. Peel the skin off the celery root and cut into julienne sticks to make about 2 cups. Cover with warm water and lemon juice in a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 12 to 15 minutes or until tender; drain.
2. Stir together the mayonnaise, yogurt, mustard, salt, pepper and parsley in a small bowl. Pour the yogurt mixture over the celery root. Cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Serve warm or chilled.
Makes 3 to 4 servings.
Celery Root and Apple Soup
Recipe adapted from the September 2007 issue of Bon Appétit.
The original recipe called for chive oil and crispy pancetta (Italian bacon), but the recipe has been simplified to use chives and regular bacon.
¼ cup (1/2 stick) butter
4 cups 1/2-inch cubes peeled celery root (from one 11/4-pound celery root)
3 cups 1/2-inch cubes peeled cored Granny Smith apples (from about 2 medium)
1½ cups chopped onion (about 1 large)
4 cups (or more) low-salt chicken broth
¼ cup cream
Salt and pepper to taste
½ cup chopped chives
3 or 4 slices bacon
1. Melt butter in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add celery root, apples, and onion. Cook until apples and some of celery root are translucent (but not brown), stirring often, about 15 minutes.
2. Add 4 cups of broth. Cover and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer covered until celery root and apples are soft, stirring occasionally, about 25 minutes. Remove from heat; cool slightly.
3. Working in batches, puree soup in blender until smooth, gradually adding more broth to thin to desired consistency. Return soup to pot. Stir in the cream, and add salt and pepper to taste.
4. Meanwhile, cook bacon in a large skillet until crisp. Drain on paper towels, then dice or crumble.
5. Serve soup with a sprinkle of chives and a bit of crumbled bacon.
Makes 6 servings.
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