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Five Fine Miles: Tanawha Trail presents challenging terrain, but the rewards on the way and at the end are great
Journal Photo by Lisa O'Donnell
The Tanawha Trail leads to an overlook that gives hikers a view of the Linn Cove Viaduct, built with care to protect Grandfather Mountain's fragile ecosystem.
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Published: June 27, 2008
LINVILLE -- Last week's five-mile hike on the Tanawha Trail near Grandfather Mountain produced two highlights; one was crafted by man, another by nature.
The 13.5-mile trail parallels the Blue Ridge Parkway from Beacon Heights at milepost 305 to Julian Price Park at milepost 299.
Along the way, it crosses under Linn Cove Viaduct, a 1,243-foot engineering marvel that skirts Grandfather Mountain.
This S-shaped bridge was part of a 7.5-mile stretch that came to be known as the Blue Ridge Parkway's missing link. For years, this part of the parkway went unfinished as Hugh Morton, Grandfather Mountain's fiercely protective owner, and the federal government haggled over the proper way to build the route through his land.
Morton once said that cutting into his mountain was akin to taking a switchblade to the Mona Lisa.
Finally, a compromise was reached that would minimize the environmental damage to the ecologically diverse mountain. Most of the viaduct's construction was built from the top down, which eliminated the need to have heavy equipment tearing up the ground. Few trees were cut, and rocks were covered to prevent staining from concrete and epoxy.
In 1987, the viaduct was dedicated marking the completion of the 469-mile parkway.
For years, I've heard that the viaduct is a spectacular sight. And I'm happy to say I was properly wowed. Though it was fun to drive the viaduct's curves, I would like to experience it as a passenger, because the urge to rubberneck at the panoramic views is difficult to suppress.
Judging from my passenger's white knuckles, I'm guessing I didn't suppress the urge to her satisfaction.
At the southern end of the viaduct is a small visitors center with information about the viaduct's construction, as well as souvenirs and restrooms.
It is here where my friend and I started the Tanawha Trail with a goal of hiking five miles and doubling back. But this proved to be overly ambitious. The trail starts as a concrete path and meanders underneath the viaduct, but it soon turns into an up-and-down climb on stone staircases and webs of exposed roots.
That meant the going was slow, and at one point I felt a slight ache in my neck from constantly watching my step.
While several guidebooks label portions of the Tanawha Trail as moderate, this 2.6-mile section, which ended at Rough Ridge Overlook, was strenuous. Indeed, you can expect only patches of level ground. Hiking poles helped take the weight off my knees and gave me a little balance on the uneven terrain.
Despite the challenging terrain, this is a beautiful and well-maintained trail that snakes past boulder fields and under hemlocks. The parkway is close by, and I almost always heard traffic, but it was never overbearing, except for the occasional roar from Harley-Davidson motorcycles.
The trail was wonderfully built with an elaborate, arched footbridge over Wilson Creek, plenty of signs, and boardwalks in some sections to protect fragile vegetation.
At one point, we crossed into an open area where we saw a wildflower that had long eluded me, a solitary Gray's lily, which blooms in only a few places in the Southern Appalachians and is classified as a threatened plant in North Carolina and endangered in Tennessee. The lily is distinctive for its bright red blooms with black speckles.
The trail had already been rich in wildflowers -- galax, Solomon's Seal, flame azaleas, -- when we stumbled upon the Gray's lily. But this one lone flower was just a tease. Further up the trail, we saw little clusters of the lily sprinkled throughout this open patch.
Later, while climbing to the overlook, we cut through thickets of blooming mountain laurel and blueberry bushes and caught sight of several turkey beards poking through the brush.
The overlook was a nice payoff for all of that deliberate walking. Despite the haze, we could see Table Rock and Hawksbill in the distance.
Though I like to cover more than five miles after driving two hours one way, there is plenty more to discover on this trail. One option is to hike this stretch, then drive to Price Park and hike for a bit on the northern terminus.
Such a trip requires another ride over the viaduct. If you're driving, just try to stay focused on the road.
FOOT NOTE: The Piedmont Land Conservancy recently won a $3,000 grant as part of the annual Land Trust Day that Great Outdoor Provision Company sponsors. The money will be used toward the land conservancy's Piedmont Regional Greenway project, a 19-mile multi-use trail that will connect Guilford and Forsyth counties.
■ Lisa O'Donnell can be reached at 727-7420 or at lo'donnell@wsjournal.com.
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