Winston Salem Journal

Dining

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Published: July 31, 2008

Updated: 07/30/2008 08:25 pm

Noble's Grill

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Location: 380 Knollwood St.

Phone: 777-8477.

Web site: www.chefjimnoble.com/NGsite/home

Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Dinner: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 5:30-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Reservations: Accepted but not necessary.

Type of cuisine: New Southern and something the restaurant industry likes to call "rustic New American." Here, it means that you will see such things as succotash and french fries on the menu next to duck confit and ostrich.

Alcohol: Fun and well-traveled list, especially wines by the glass. On a recent visit that selection included two Spanish whites and a rose. You won't be forced into drinking yet another California chardonnay here.

Smoking: Allowed only on the outside patio.

Health-department rating: 93 percent.

Price range: (based on a recent menu) Appetizers, soups and salads: $7-$16. Entrees: $22-$35. Desserts: $7. Sides: $5-$12. Proteins and mains: $12-$39.

Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover.

Atmosphere: Dim lighting, high ceilings, an extraordinary large crock of fresh flowers on the bar -- and no tablecloths. It's a mix of high and low, luxury and casualness that Noble's is trying hard to pull off. Sometimes it works. Sometimes there's still a clubby, everyone-knows-your-name-and-the-luxury-import-you-drive feeling.

The wait: Nothing much.

Service: Many of the servers are young but overall well-trained. Some look too baby-faced to drink the wine they are serving, though they're quick to bring samples.

What people wear: Though Noble's is trying to convey a more casual image, tidy, tucked-in polo shirts is about as carefree as its clientele get.

Be sure to try: (from recent menu) watermelon tomato salad; scallops with cream corn and country ham; polenta fries; assorted mushrooms; grilled tuna with white beans and lemon-chive preserves; warm chocolate cake; bread pudding with currants and Courvoisier ice cream.

Stay away from: Banana walnut bread (but it's worth ordering the banana gelato that comes with it).

Will I go back?: Yes.

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